A couple of new brakes have made it into the Velo Orange store. I'm most excited about the new Mafac cantilever copies made by Tektro. The seem really nicely made and look very cool. I'll be mounting a set on one of my bikes with Yokozuna pads in a few days. At $75 for a bike's worth they are also a great deal.
We also now stock the wonderful long reach Tektro 521AG. The Tektro 512AG is a very high quality long reach brake (47 to 57mm). They include re-fillable cartridge type brake shoes, barrel adjusters with O-rings, recessed mount, and a cam type quick-release. The finish is polished aluminum. At $45 a set they are another great deal.
Finally we found some beautiful old non-aero CLB levers with dark brown gum hoods. A very classy component for a traditional randonneuse or race bike. New-old-stock; limited quantities.
Tektro has been hard at work. Have a look at their new CR720 brakes. Should we stock them?
We are still working on our own brand of silver inverse levers to fit Nitto porteur bars. If that doesn't work out we'll make porteur bars to fit standard inverse levers.
25 May, 2007
Brakes
Posted by Velo Orange at 1:37:00 PM
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23 comments:
Those Tektro brakes look great. I wonder how they compare to Paul's? I think you should stock them. I'd probably buy 2 pair.
I meant the 521AG, but the Mafac copies look cool too.
We have the 521s and the Mafac copies in stock already. The CLB levers too. I was wondering if I should stock the 720s
The 720's remind me of Bruce Gordon's brakes. Very nice.
I like the look of the 720's, too. Definitely stock them!
Just to pick nits, the Tektro cantis are knock-offs of Empella Frog Legs. They aren't really Mafac copies...
Doug
Good news on the inverse levers. Might the design be able to incorporate both internal and external cable routing?
Wishful thinking on my part...!
720s are nice. They would look good on a city bike and touring bike as well.
Do any of the bike engineers among us know whether the old CLB levers have line pull necessary for mechanical disc brakes? Right now I am setting up my camper with Dia Compe 287Vs. Functional but bland.
The CLBs would really be nice to look at on all day rides through the middle of nowhere.
oops again. i meant the 720s. the do look very nice.
Chris,
any idea when the reverse brake levers would be avalible? Are the going to be able to fit standard road id? I'm intersted in getting a pair if they will work with my moustache bars.
I was defending Tektro 5 years ago - even then it was pretty clear they would bring designs to the market that others would not.
The 720's look GREAT! Go Tektro! Of course you should stock them! The FrogLeg copies are nice but I wish they hadn't spec'd them with the straight-post canti shoes. The V-brake shoes/hardware are the way to go...
Oh, and 521's have to be one of the best deals currently going in the brake world - I have them on 2 bikes - fantastic!
Am I correct in assuming that the pads aren't adjustable in the frog leg copies?
all brakes of the tektro/spooky/froglegs ilk are mafac copies. they all use the same basic design. not mafac copies: paul neo-retros. they are all adjustable, toe in wise, just not using contemporary means. you use a hammer or a crecent wrench. that said, i have the mafacs, and with kool stop eagle pads, no toe it was needed.
the CLB levers would work good with mechanical disc brakes. they would feel better than the diacompe levers. anyone who hasnt used a lever designed for a canti brake on a mechanical disc brake has been missing out. they have more power and better modulation. why the makers dont market that fact is beyond me.
the 720s look cold to me, like they would be great on a cross racing bike, but not on a classically oriented bike.
Johnson:
Thanks. Very helpful. You make a good point about the marketing. In fact, many the young associate at the LBSes insist you can only use MB style levers even with disc brakes. I know the Dia Compes work, but they are, shall we say, of somewhat humble design.
i know at least 2 people who race cross with tektro drop levers and normal bb7 disc brakes. they work great. in fact, so well, that i probally would recommend against using compressionless kevlar housing.
johnson.
Would love to see a demonstration in words, pictures, and perhaps even video of toe-in "adjustment" on MAFAC, Spooky, Empella, Tektro cantilevers. I'm about ready to rename the era "The Noisey Age of Handbuilt Bicycles". Make the noise stop.
The Mafac/Frogleg copies I can live without. I've worked on lots of Empella/Mafac style brakes for 'cross and still can't understand why anyone would like that design. They're more difficult to adjust and make pad changes a pain. Also on some frames they simply won't work due to stud placement.
Threaded post designs like the 720 or Paul make way more sense. The 720 looks like a winner. Visually it reminds me of the classic Deore cantilevers.
Greg:
Toe in on Mafac/Empella brakes is done by wrapping the brake with rag (to prevent scratching) and then bending the entire brake with a large crescent wrench. Like I said above, the design leaves much to be desired in terms of adjustability!
See if you can get the 720s with all silver hardware.
love the look of the 720's. i wonder how they function.
Both look terrific. I like the linear spring and nutted pads on the 720, and the aesthetics. Sensible, minimalist, a good combination. --DavidM
Chiming in late here, but another vote in favor of the 720s. I really like the look, and find it elegant in a minimalist way.
I'd love to buy a set NOW in fact, but they don't seem to be available anywhere. Is there an expected date?
1. To set up a high profile (Mafac style) cantilever, you want to have the arms horizontal when the pads touch the rims. This means you need to run the pads in and out via the posts to get the correct fit. This is not an issue with V-brakes, because the geometry is controled by the cable and housing contraction.
(To set the mechanical advantage on a low profile cantilever requires a careful and calculated adjustment of the yoke, which I don't think any bike mechanic is prepared to do, as I have never see a published formula...)
2. My favorite way to adjust Mafac's is to tighten a #2 Philips screwdriver in the pad post anchor (the screwdriver has about the same diameter as the post) and then use the handle to tweak it. It is necessary because the bosses are not always brazed on exactly parallel (nor are the calipers always true).
JG
Do the retro Tektros have a model name? I can't find them for sale anywhere else, nor any mention of them on Tektro's own (admittedly sparse) website.
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