We've had a number of people emailing about when to expect a few new products we showcased earlier in the summer and we're pleased to announce they're here!
24 October, 2014
Posted by VeloOrange at 12:17:00 PM
22 October, 2014
Here's a small collection of tips and tricks I use in the shop, and one I use while out riding. If you have more, put them in the comments!
Penny + Quill Stem
We've all been there. Unwrap your new drop handlebar and immediately scratch the bend trying to get it through the quill stem's clamp. Then you sigh and say to yourself, 'it's okay, tape will cover it up'. If your stem clamp has a threaded portion, put the bolt through the backside and tighten a penny. It will keep the clamp expanded and you'll be able to open it up a bit to more easily slide the bar's curves through the clamp without damage. If you have a threadless design like a Nitto, find a thin nut to place in the clamp for the screw to thread through.
If you're cutting a bolt for a better fit, thread a nut further down than the cut. When you unthread the nut, the threads are automatically cleaned up!
The clamp and body of non-aero brake levers are much smaller than their aero counterparts. Being able to see the clamp through your new bar tape is unsightly and detracts from the appearance. When you've set up the position of the levers, put some scotch tape on the clamp to hold it in place. Unscrew the body from the clamp. The clamp should stay in place by the tape. Wrap around the clamp and screw the body back on. Voila! No embarrassing clamp is visible through your wrap.
This one I picked up from Mark. Our fender eyelet bolts are absolutely perfect for guiding dynamo wires. Zipties should be kept to an absolute minimum on a bike. Yes, I did use a few zipties. I am ashamed. The back is in need of severe de-ziptieing. De-ziptying? De-zipting? Anyway, use a couple washers to achieve optimal guiding of wires.
|P-Clamps are acceptable|
Posted by VeloOrange at 3:21:00 PM
10 October, 2014
The Grand Cru 0 Setback Seatpost in Silver and Noir has been a very popular and we've gotten a few questions about assembly, as they're a bit different from a traditional 2-bolt or 1-bolt clamp. So here are some quick instructions on how to attach your saddle to your seatpost.
- Admire your new seatpost and saddle.
- Disassemble the seatpost. There are 2 short hollow rods that can be discarded or used for spitballs, your choice.
- I assemble with the saddle on a table, upside-down; it keeps things together nicely. Place lower clamp on rails.
- Insert the upper hooks under the lower clamp. You should have the recessed non-threaded hook on the driveside and the threaded hook on the non-driveside.
- Insert seatpost head and pinch together the hooks. Insert the screw and tighten.
- Voila! There you have it. To adjust, loosen the screw a couple turns, adjust angle, and tighten snug.
Posted by VeloOrange at 1:25:00 PM
08 October, 2014
Posted by VeloOrange at 1:45:00 PM
03 October, 2014
It's pumpkin season. We thought it would be fun to have a pumpkin carving contest. The staff here carved a couple of pumpkins this week; I carved Pierre, our "enjoy life" mascot. Unfortunately, he got in a little spill overnight before the photo was taken and taco-ed his rear wheel.
Here are the rules:
- Come up with an original bike themed design.
- Email your submission to us at email@example.com with "pumpkin contest" in the subject
- Your deadline for submission is October 30, end of business day, 5pm EST.
- No plagiarizing! We have Google and we know how to use it
- We'll post our favorite submissions to our blog and announce the winner on Halloween
- The winner will get a $100 gift certificate to our site
- For bonus points, use an Opinel knife
|The one on the left is by Clint, the right one by Adrian.|
|Pumpkin-neuring, Scott says it has potential|
Posted by VeloOrange at 3:01:00 PM
01 October, 2014
|My personal favorite: Algae|
Posted by VeloOrange at 11:04:00 AM
29 September, 2014
Anyways, the old Atax stem I had in there was a 22.0mm while most conventional threaded stems are 22.2mm. It's easy enough to take a piece of sandpaper and remove .1mm from the surface.
|Signs of wear and tear.|
|Purple sandpaper works best.|
Grand Cru Reflectors
|Presentation is important|
Posted by VeloOrange at 12:50:00 PM
25 September, 2014
We did this to simplify our shipping cost structure and make it easier to understand and transparent. Basically, if you live in the continental USA you get free shipping on orders over $100, except on oversize items (Those are frames and wheels.) which incur a maximum shipping charge of $19.
If you live outside of the lower 48 we charge the actual shipping cost. We ask that you place your order so our incredible shipping staff can weigh it and determine the smallest box it will fit in (because box size is often more important than weight in determining cost). We'll calculate shipping using one or more carriers and send you an e-mail with the charges, usually with different options for speed and cost. You can pick one or cancel the order.
Speaking of frame prices, they'll probably go up next year due to manufacturing cost increases. Our frames are made in the same factory and out of the same tubing and by the same craftsmen as some frames costing more than twice times as much, though, to be fair, you do get more curlicues with some of those. VO frames also cost about the same as some frames that come nowhere near the quality of ours (and it really annoys me when people compare our frames to those). Anyway, it's always been my philosophy to charge what I consider to be a fair profit, not what the market will bear.
Finally, we offer a three year warranty on our frames. Even great steel frames do, very rarely, crack or break, and it's often really hard to tell why it happens. For example, a customer cracked a dropout on a VO frame; we sent him a new frame. He cracked the dropout on the replacement! Those are the only two dropout problems we've seen in the thousands of frames we've sold--and we still have no idea why it happened.
I just wanted to say one more thing about VO frames. I think what makes them special is the way they ride and handle. For me, at least, everything else, except decent build quality, come very far behind ride and handling when it comes to choosing a bike frame. And that's why we're a bit obsessed with ordering multiple prototypes and testing them for many months.
Posted by VeloOrange at 12:22:00 PM