13 February, 2014

VO Alloy Chainguard Installation Made Easy

by Igor

Our Alloy Chainguard is an easy, affordable way to keep your pants and calf clean from bike grease when using an internal gear hub or single speed/fixed gear.



What you get in the package: one guard with the bottom bracket drive side mount pre-assembled and hardware to mount to the drive side chainstay.



First, untension chain.


Remove crank arms. If you have a VO Crankset, you can pull the arms without using a special puller; you only need an 8mm wrench. Start removing the drive side bottom bracket. The non drive side can stay in. Clean shell and threads. 



Put bottom bracket body through chainguard and re-install into bottom bracket shell.


Assemble chainstay clamp and re-install wheel.



The crankarm may touch the guard. Don't be afraid to push the guard to clear the arm. Different cranksets have different tolerances/q-factors. Note, the bottom bracket will be shifted out to the drive side a couple millimeters, but not enough to really notice any difference.


Confirm everything is tight, ride around to make sure frame flex doesn't change tolerances.


Enjoy! Btw, this thing is shiny.



21 comments:

A said...

Do they come with the logo etched on now?

Anonymous said...

You'll have to re-tighten the none drive side cup after this procedure. The chainguardbracket spaces the axles towards the driveside.

E Williamson said...

Love the shiny look with the not-shiny bike. Like my bike.
Anyone tried to run these with a 1x8?

E Williamson said...

Anyone tried to run this with a 1x8?

Anonymous said...

Can you do this with a French threaded BB, or would it be a bad idea to make it even harder to tighten?

Dave M. said...

I once saw a bicycle, I think it was a Civia, that had a chain guard AND a derailleur drivetrain. The chain guard was simply wide enough to accommodate the motion of the chain. I have never been able to find any information about it online. If you make such a product, you've got a customer here.

Reynolds531 said...

Please note that the stated size is near the maximum chainring that will fit.

I really like mine. I have a 39 chainring with the 38 chainguard. But A 42 chainring will not fit the 38 chainguard.

Anonymous said...

I run a 1x8 with no problem, 42 up front, 11-32 in back, although note that I asked a pro to install it to be on the safe side. Occasionally, when I go over a bump, I get metallic chain slap as it flexes upwards, no big deal. The one accommodation I had to make was at the rear attachment: the derailleur would bounce up and hit the rear bolt, scratching up the derailleur and making noise. I added a wide rubber washer, the kind VO offers for other uses, to the bolt, and that took care of it. The guard is great in all kinds of weather. My crankset has a bash guard in the place of an outer ring, and the bash guard sits nicely within the 42 chain guard with no rubbing, making for a pretty good enclosure and no chance for coming off the front ring. Plus it looks like an old Hot Wheel.

VeloOrange said...

Pictured is our 44T Fluted Single MK2 crankset and 44T chainguard. Works perfectly.

Dave M. said...

That's great @crmodgeon, but if running 1x8 you might as well use internal gearing. The guard that I saw worked with a double.

Anonymous said...

Dave M., my frame has vertical dropouts, but even if it didn't, to me that's like saying I might as well spend $300 more than I have for a heavier, more unwieldy component that creates as many problems as it solves. The range of a standard cassette is adequate for my needs, and for the price of an IGH I could practically buy a new wheel set. If I wanted to go whole-hog, I suppose I could pair an IGH with a full-enclosure chain case, but the chain guard in question fills a nice niche. And above all, I love the dancing chain.

Eric Lowe said...

I have a 42T ring. Is a 44T size guard going to be too big?

VeloOrange said...

@eric Lowe,

44T would work great.

John Duval said...

Would that work with a GXP style threaded bottom bracket with the hollow axle?

Book Worm said...

Hello. I have a 46T ring -- should I go with a 44T or 48T guard? Thanks in advance for your help and for making this great product!

VeloOrange said...

@ Book Worm - go with the 48T - a larger radius is better then smaller.

TonyD said...

Hi, do you still make the 38T version for my 1x8 setup? I see references to it, but I don't see it listed and I'm hoping you may be "temporarily out". I don't want to use the 44T as I think it would look sloppy. Thanks!

VeloOrange said...

@ Tony D
Yep, we still make those. We are out of stock right now, but more will be arriving in early February when our next container lands - Scott

Paul Cooley said...

Do they work with the old style, loose ball bearing, bottom brackets? The drive side is the fixed cup, but I assume I can get the right size spanner to remove it, and I don't see why it would not tighten back down like any modern bottom bracket. I should still be able to adjust the adjustable cup to make up for the extra space - shouldn't I? Has anyone tried it with a less-than-modern bottom bracket?

VeloOrange said...

Paul,

Good question! While installation on a modern sealed cartridge bottom bracket would be best/easiest, you should be able to use this chainguard with a traditional cup and cone bottom bracket that has a fixed driveside cup. The issue would be if your bottom bracket can have the bearing adjusted from both ends. Then I don't believe it would work.

-Igor

Andy "What?" M-S said...

Since I recently took the jump from 2x9 to 1x9, I decided to install one of these on my Rando. It looks great! The 44t model leaves a little extra space with my 42t chainring, but it's not bad and it keeps my cuff clean.

It's too bad you don't sell the fancier version anymore, but this is perfectly functional and adequately pretty!