We've updated our VO and Honjo fender mounting instructions and here they are. Feel free to add additional tips in the comments.
- Allen wrench set
- Hacksaw or big wire cutter for cutting stays
- Phillips head screwdriver (on some models)
- Tape measure
- If mounting undrilled fenders you'll also need a drill and 5mm bit. Plus a 3mm bit if attaching an L-bracket.
- A file and sharp punch or nail are also nice to have.
- 8mm wrench (for Honjo R-clips)
- 10mm wrench or socket (for Honjo Daruma)
Attaching the Fender Stays:
Attach the stays to the fenders using eyelet bolts. We like the bolts about 15cm from the aft end of the fenders, but the exact distance is not critical. Some model fenders come with one draw bolt per fender, others with two. Our Honjo extra long models are pre-drilled for the bolts. On other models, mark the location of the bolts and make an indent with a punch or sharp nail. Drill a 5mm hole for each bolt.
Most Honjo fenders use two eyelet bolts per stay. The VO fenders use slightly thicker aluminum and so require only one per stay. Thread the stay into the draw bolts and secure the bolts to the fender with a washer and locknut. If using two bolts per fender you'll need to flex the fender and stay to insert both bolts at once.
Installing the front fender:
If your bike has a fender boss under the fork crown, as VO frames have, fenders without L brackets can simply be attached with 5mm bolt and washer. But be sure to use a leather washer between the crown and fender. The leather washer absorbs vibrations and cushions the fender, helping to prevent cracking at the bolt hole. Note that leather washer must be ordered separately.
If using a VO or Honjo L-bracket secure it to the brake bolt. On undrilled fenders you'll need to drill two 3mm holes and mount the bracket as shown in the photo. On some forks it's necessary to bend the top of the L-bracket outward a little bit to allow it to clear the headset.
If using a fork crown daruma, remove the brake, hold the daruma inside the fork crown and thread the brake bolt through the 6mm hole in the daruma. On undrilled fenders, drill a matching 5mm hole in the fender. Again, the extra long Honjos are pre-drilled and “dimpled” so the fender sits right over the wheel. Place the large metal washer, then the rubber washer over the threaded end of the daruma.. Secure the fender with a flat washer and nut.
On fenders that don't have a pre-formed “dimple” for the daruma, push the fender forward, making a small dent in the fender under the fork crown. This compensates for the fork rake, allowing proper fender alignment with the wheel.
Place the R-clips on the stays and screw them to the eyelets on your front dropout with 5mm screws. Hint: removing the quick release skewer makes it easier. Adjust the stays for a perfect fender line. You'll notice that the stays are too long; mark and cut them to length with a hacksaw or large wire cutter. File or sand down the ends so they aren't sharp.
Installing the rear fender:
On a VO or other well-designed frame there will be bosses at the brake bridge and the chainstay bridge and plenty of room for the fender. All you'll need to do in that case is drill matching holes and screw the fender into place. Don't forget the leather washers between the frame and fender.
On most production frames things are a bit more difficult. You may have to bend the front of the rear fender to make it fit between the chain stays then bolt it into place through the hole in the chain stay bridge. But don't do this yet; first install the sliding bridge bracket. The VO version is made of malleable metal that you fold over the fender then pinch shut with pliers. The Honjo sliding bracket slips on over the fender from the end and is then pinched shut. An L-bracket may be substituted for the sliding bracket.
Bolt the bridge bracket to the brake bridge and slide the fender forward to the desired location. Now bolt the front of the fender to the chainstay bridge. Remember the leather washer. Pinch each side of the sliding bridge bracket with pliers to lock the fender in place and so it doesn't rattle
Finally attach and trim the stays to the dropout eyelets as you did on the front fender. Check that all the screws, nuts, and bolts are tight, (don't forget to reinstall those quick release skewers) and go for a ride. After a few miles check that everything is still tight.